Log for Tuesday, July 8, 2003

Kalispell and Glacier National Park, Montana

After my incredible day trip to Bowman Lake I drove back to Kalispell and stayed overnight at the Hampton Inn on US Highway 2. Kalispell, Montana is located in Flathead County where US 2 and US 93 meet and is surrounded by mountains, glacial lakes, and fertile valleys. Founded in 1891, Kalispell is the 7th largest city in Montana and the largest city in northwest Montana. The Great Northern Railroad helped put Kalispell on the map in 1891. The railroad brought in merchants, farmers, tourists and pioneers looking for a new land and a new start, all of whom helped build the city into the industial center of the area.

I picked up my brother, David and my nephew, Joel at Glacier International Airport just outside Kalispell, Montana. Their Delta flight was right on time. It had been raining most of the morning but the clouds started to clear once they arrived. It was 62 degrees earlier in the morning, the first really cool, rainy day of the trip.

We drove to West Glacier, then stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Permit office to get my backcountry permit. I had had to fax the application form in way back on April 15, 2003. The ranger who greeted me told me that my first choice, Otokomi Lake, had not been available so I had been assigned Cracker Lake. Since Cracker Lake was closed by the rangers due to recent bear activity in the area the park ranger gave me my first choice of Otokomi Lake after all. Otokomi Lake is a 5.2-mile, 1,900-foot climb to a glacier lake. The trail runs to the right of Rose Creek all the way. I left the Apgar Backcountry Permit office very happy!

We drove the steep and winding two-lane Going-to-the-Sun Road from Apgar to St. Mary stopping frequently for the breathtaking photo opportunities. The Going-to-the-Sun Road is a spectacular and scenic 52-mile road through Glacier National Park, which runs east to west and crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass (6,646 feet). From it you can see waterfalls, glaciers, deep gorges, wide vistas, and abundant wildlife. Highlights of the Going-to-the-Sun Road traveling from west to east follows:

• Apgar Village (2.6 miles from West Glacier), the visitor center and other facilities
• The Lake McDonald Historic District (10.8 miles from West Glacier), centering on the Lake McDonald Lodge
• John's Lake Pullout (12.8 miles from West Glacier), where you can take a half-mile walk through a red cedar and hemlock forest to the marshy John's Lake.
• The Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Campground (16.2 miles from West Glacier), a third-of-a-mile handicapped accessible trail.
• The Loop (24.6 miles from West Glacier), where you get a scenic view of Heaven's Peak
• The Bird Woman Falls Overlook (26.8 miles from West Glacier), which you see across the valley
• Weeping Wall (28.7 miles from West Glacier), where water cascades down the wall next to your car
• Logan Pass (32 miles from West Glacier), visitor center sitting atop the Continental Divide, several hikes are available here
• Jackson Glacier Overlook (36.1 miles from West Glacier), best view of a glacier from the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
• Sunrift Gorge (39.4 miles from West Glacier), where you can take a 75-foot walk to get a spectacular view of the water-carved gorge
• Sun Point (40 miles from West Glacier), where you can take a 1.2-mile hike on the Sun Point Nature Trail
• Rising Sun (43.8 miles from West Glacier), boat dock and campground
• Two Dog Flats (48 miles from West Glacier), native grassland community with lots of wildlife viewing
• St. Mary Visitor Center (49.3 miles from West Glacier), exhibits and brochures available
• St. Mary itself (50.1 miles from West Glacier), the town just outside the park.

We stopped briefly and hiked at St. John's near Avalanche Creek. We were all beginning to see that we would need many more days to see and do all the things we would want to do in Glacier National Park.

Near the Bird Woman Falls on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, we saw our first black bear, albeit from quite a distance. The bear was walking near the edge of the waterfall some 200 yards away from us. We got a very clear view of him through binoculars. The road turned into another mountainous, curvy road at this point, though not as bad as the Beartooth Highway. The views are just as dramatic, however. We reached Logan Pass around 6 p.m and got an excellent view of Jackson Glacier.

David and Joel checked into the Rising Sun Motor Inn and I set up my camp at Rising Sun Campground, space 52. This is a very nice campground with the usual Montana self-pay system. Staying overnight in a tent costs $15.00 per night and credit cards can be used. Getting a campsite proved extremely easy even in July. Basically, you drive around the campground and find an empty space, occupy it for thirty minutes, then fill out the information requested on the payment envelope and put the payment in the drop box. A very nice ranger came around to remind me not to leave out any food or food containers overnight as this was Grizzly Bear country. (As if I needed to be reminded!)

My brother and I made a campfire in the fire ring and enjoyed watching the many stars in the night sky. Joel made S'mores and added his secret ingredient of a squeeze tube of peanut butter. I slept extremely well with my pepper spray by my side. No bear encounters during the night!